A plant's defensive ability against herbivore attack can be influenced by many different factors, one of them being domestication. During human selection to improve the yield of plants, the resistance against herbivore attack can have been lowered, due to a trade-off for use of resources between these traits in the plants. In this thesis I investigated the effect of domestication on resistance against herbivorous insects in Cotton plants. I used different varieties and species of wild and domesticated Cotton in three different experiments. A feeding assay was conducted, the mortality, development time and pupal weight of larvae of the Egyptian Cotton leaf worm Spodoptera littoralis was studied. In a second experiment the preference of the root-feeding beetle Agriotes spp.

Changes in the environment are affecting the world market, and pressures from several stakeholders? are forcing different enterprises to adjust to the current situation. Farmers? difficult working conditions and environmental impacts of the conventional Cotton production in India have been highlighted. The small-scale production that is characterising India?s Cotton farmers implies an insufficient competition power.

In the last years people has become more aware of issues regarding corporate social responsibility. This has led to a more thorough control of big multinational companies, which are often held account of violating social, ethical and environmental values. The term most often used for this is corporate social responsibility (CSR). H&M is a Swedish multinational company and the concept of H&M is fashion to a low price. The material most often used in producing clothes is Cotton.

Our common future involves many important challenges. People and nature need to improve the relationship in order to reach an ecologically sustainable development. In a society where consumption of products steadily increases, the consumer awareness about social and environmental issues connected to the products becomes an importent factor. More and more companies choose to work more actively with these issues and more and more products get labelled by some of the eco labelling organisations. From the cradle to the gate means that a study has been done on a part of a products life cycle.

This study was made to compare and distinguish any differences in olfactory recognition and host plant adaptation between two strains of Cotton leaf worm, Spodoptera littoralis. The populations used were established in Egypt and Benin, Africa. The documentation consisted of information about (1) each of the strains development through the larval stage up to pupation on diets of Cotton, clover and cowpea. (2) Their oviposition preferences as adults between Cotton, clover, cowpea, maize and cabbage. (3) Electroantennographic recordings to quantify any possible responses to plant volatiles. Throughout the diet experiments the larvae from the Benin strain showed significantly a better development between artificial, clover, cowpea and Cotton respectively, while the Egypt strain had significance between artificial, Cotton and cowpea/clover as diet. Also noted was how the strains substantial development of weight differentiated if fed the Cotton diet, followed by the cowpea diet showing that the Benin strain would develop a higher body mass on a Cotton diet as well as on a cowpea diet. This trend was however switched once the pupal stage was reached, where the Egyptian strain contained a significantly greater body mass than the Benin strain on the artificial and the Benin strain a greater on cowpea, which suggests that in the end, the Benin strain develops significantly better on cowpea while the Egypt strain develops better on an artificial diet. During the oviposition experiment that both stains showed a clear difference in hierarchy of host plants considered suitable for oviposition, where the Egyptian strain is significantly more attracted to clover than the Benin strain. Also showed with electroantennographic recordings and significant values was the higher sensitivity the Egypt strain had towards (E)2-hexenal, (E/Z)-b-ocimene, (Z)-3-hexenyl acetate, Nonanal, (-)-linalool and ?-myrcene when compared to the responses from the Benin strain..

Organic Cotton has been in the medias field of vision for quite some time. This interestalso reflects in a growing awareness in the textile industry where more and morecompanies today offer organic Cotton in their product range. With this in mind wequestion whether organic Cotton has become a viable commercial product. We alsoacknowledge there is a lacking of understanding the complex problems that organicCotton manufacture involves, for example the huge effort and cost required for a transitionfrom conventional to organic Cotton farming.The purpose of this paper was to study how textile, ecology and competition today arebeing combined by companies. We wanted with our investigation to find out whethercompanies in the textile industry use ecology as a competitive advantage.

Syftet med vår uppsats var att undersöka vilken kunskap den svenska konsumenten har om ekologisk bomull samt om de handlar kläder av ekologisk bomull. Vi genomförde en enkätstudie med både kvalitativa och kvantitativa inslag. Enkätundersökningen utfördes i centrala Göteborg vid fem tillfällen under april. Både män och kvinnor mellan 20-60 år tillfrågades. Vid analysen av enkäterna valde vi att ta ut statistik i diagram och tabeller.

CSR, Corporate Social Responsibility, has become increasingly important in a globalised world where the responsibilities of companies and governments are somewhat blurry. The textile industry is an industry where long supply chains and raw material production in developing countries are factors adding to the complexity and difficulties of solving ethical issues. Cotton production faces many environmental, social and financial challenges in the value chain. Therefore this case study takes a closer look at five Nordic home textile companies, Ikea, Hemtex, S Group, Moko and Finlayson, and how these companies choose their Cotton related CSR tools and communicate their work on this area. These companies are of various sizes and therefore the resources for CSR work are also different, as well as the perceived values for working with CSR.

Syftet med undersökningen är att undersöka, beskriva och analysera kring hur vida det finns ett bra substitut till bomull. Undersökningen kommer att belysa hur marknaden ser ut i dag och vilka material som används. Vidare utreds parametrarna funktion, kundnytta och hållbarhet, som kan komma att spela roll i valet av material för producenter av yrkeskläder. I dagsläget finns det inget solklart val av material som skulle kunna mäta sig med bomullen gällande de parametrarna som uppsatsen tar upp. Vad man väljer att använda istället för bomull beror mycket på hur företagen väljer att fokusera gällande just funktion, kundnytta och hållbarhet.

The aim of this thesis is to discuss and analyse the American Cotton subsidies? effect on the world market in general and developing countries in particular. The amount of U.S. subsidies is substantial compared to most other countries, but a great deal of the effect is due to the USA?s significant share of the market.

This study includes a life cycle assessment, LCA, on an ecological produced Cotton shirt for the company Reflective Circle, which designs ethical and ecological clothes.Initially were Cotton farming and textile production studied to gather basic knowledge about the processes. Since this shirt is being ecological produced in the whole production chain, we studied what an ecological production means, but also how a conventional production works. When this was done we could start to discuss the differences and similarities between the production of the shirt and general conventional production.When the LCA was first initiated, the main focus was on the green house gas emissions from the manure at the cultivation. Thereafter the process steps such as picking, ginning, carding, spinning, weaving and sewing were being studied. The picking is done by hand, but the rest of the processes are handed by machines which consumes energy.

A growing number of companies realise that to achieve their environmental goals and satisfy stakeholder expectations, they need to look beyond their own facilities and to involve their suppliers in environmental initiatives. A life cycle approach means that the production system should be optimised as whole, across national boarders and individual organisations taking part all the way from extraction to disposal. This study is a Life Cycle Inventory of resources used when producing a piece of Cotton garment and the method is based on the standardisation series of ISO 14040-43. The area of study, Tamil Nadu the most southern state of India, accounts for more than 90% of India?s knitwear exports to Western Europe.

Allt fler konsumenter väljer att göra ekologiska val, detta på grund av en ökad medvetenhet samt ett intresse för miljön. Bomull är en av de fibrer som används mest i kläder, trots detta så är bomullsproduktionen väldigt påfrestande för miljön. Mycket giftiga kemikalier, konstgödsel samt stora mängder vatten används vid dessa odlingar. Då bomullsodlingar är så pass resurskrävande måste alla klädföretag visa sitt engagemang i denna fråga. Detta kan göras på olika sätt, att välja ekologisk bomull framför konventionell bomull är då ett steg i riktning då den ekologiska bomullen är helt befriad från kemikalier och andra farliga medel.Syftet är att denna rapport ska verka som ett underlag för klädföretag som i dagsläget inte använder sig av ekologisk bomull.

Hemp has been used for textiles for a long time in history until it became illegal to grow in many countries in the 1930s. It is interesting from an environmental point of view because it doesn?t need any pesticides and in most locations it doesn?t need any irrigation either, compared to Cotton, which normally requires big amounts of both pesticides and water for irrigation. Hemp is a bast fiber, which means that the fibers are located on the bast of the stem (on the outer layer of the stem). Therefore they cannot be spun directly, they have to be removed from the stem first.

The development within the textile industry is always ongoing with development of new andbetter textiles, which often mean the use of non-natural materials like polyester. This doesn?t lineup with the work shared around the world against an improved environment, so the idea came touse a form of linen fibers instead of polyester as the reinforcing material together with Cotton.The idea was to use flax, linen of low quality, which is seen as a waste product and garbage inthe production of high quality linen and flax seed oil. This flax of low quality needs to beseparated before it can be used in Cotton spinning machines. Fireball 2 is just that, a process toseparate flax fibers through the treatment of a technique called electrohydraulic discharge.The thesis works goal is to evaluate the Fireball 2 process ability to separate flax fiber.